Turbulent year for craft brewing

BY WILLIAM DEAN

  The high-flying North Coast craft beer scene experienced some turbulence in 2024, but the year ended with a smooth landing.

  Astoria lost a brewery but gained another, downtown spaces that had become vacant were filled, and beer kept being produced at record levels.

  Here’s a look back at some of the highs and lows:

  Tears! The year started off badly, with Reach Break Brewing and Fortune & Glory Cider Co. both announcing closures in early January. The reasons varied, but the bottom line was a pair of unexpected vacancies in the heart of the downtown Astoria beer zone.

  Cheers! Seven months after the closures, Buoy Beer Co. took over Reach Break’s prized patio/taproom space off Duane Street. Buoy hosted its Oktoberfest celebration there, stretching the festivities over five weekends.

  The brewery intends to operate its mothballed pilot brewing system at the new location, along with a small distillery run by sister company Pilot House. The small-batch system will give Buoy a chance to experiment more with special beers, an option that’s been lacking since the 2022 waterfront building collapse. 

  Cheers! Fort George Brewery’s advanced solar roof spanning its main brewing facility on the Columbia River waterfront became operational in early fall, earning kudos as the North Coast’s most ambitious alternative energy project.

Fort George’s solar roof is operational.

  Cheers! An exciting new cidery opened in April on the Long Beach peninsula. Ilwaco Cider Co. quickly hit its stride, offering a range of hard ciders and a spacious taproom that often features live music. The creative recipes are the work of co-owner and head cider maker Vinessa Karnofski, a former chef.

  Tears! Buoy announced in September that it would be getting out of the restaurant business at the end of the year in a cost-cutting move, allowing its lease on brewpub space in the downtown Astoria Food Hub building to expire. 

  Cheers! In a surprise move, Sisu Brewing bought the Food Hub building in October, with plans to install a 30-barrel brewery inside, along with a taproom and restaurant. Sisu has been cramped for space at its current location, the historic Times Theatre in downtown Seaside. A construction timeline has not been released.

Sisu Brewing will be converting this downtown Astoria space into a pub and brewery, expanding on Buoy’s usage.

  Cheers! Warrenton is inching closer to having a brewery of its own. As of late December, the Battery 245 Brewing brewhouse was under construction. The owners hope to open a taproom in the East Harbor Avenue building across from the city marina by late February. (Might be a tad optimistic).

  Cheers! After a series of delays, the old Sunflower Dairy building in downtown Astoria is being converted into a taproom and recreational space, offering locally made craft soda and gluten-free beer. Construction is expected to be completed in fall. (That, too, may be optimistic).

Vinessa and Jarrod Karnofski opened Ilwaco Cider.

  Cheers! Bodega Taproom & Bottle Shop opened on North Hemlock Street in Cannon Beach, giving craft beer and wine fans another place to gather and savor. Indoor and outdoor seating is available.

  Cheers! Fort George was awarded four gold medals for its beers in 2024 – the most ever in a single year. Those of us who visit the brewery regularly weren’t surprised, but the national recognition is nice.

  So, there you go. Despite a few setbacks, a good year overall for craft brewing. 

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WILLIAM DEAN is a novelist and former investigative journalist who enjoys writing about the art of craft brewing. Astoria Beer Zone is his blog.


(This column originally appeared Dec. 31, 2024 in the Astorian).

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